The Observer
credits: Anelia Peschev
Dresses made out of draped newspaper clippings: ‘The Observer‘, an installation by Anelia Peschev, suggests a critical point of view towards the loop of a continual reproduction of trends. In this context the material becomes a symbol for an allusion to sustainability in general and the ephemeral character of trends in fashion, but also drops a hint to cosmopolitanism and tolerance.
The motto: “We wrap tomorrow’s fashion in yesterday’s newspaper.”
Vienna based Anelia Peschev, who`s been assistant of Atil Kutoglu, will show her latest Spring/Summer 2010 collection ‘longing for orpheus’ at today`s upcoming Vienna Awards among Elfenkleid and [ep_anouí].
Kids. As Only Kids Can.
credits: Martin Stöbich
Vienna based photographer Martin Stöbich has an amazing portfolio made up between portraiture, advertising, documentation and architecture. Besides his terrific view and a clear and decent, but expressive aesthetic, his pictures show the strong nature of people – something you`ll only catch, while making room for the models to let them show, what`s special about them. Being aware, that the practice of photographic portraiture is rife with ethical implications, the particular importance of the relationship between the artist and his model becomes clear. Have a look at Martin Stöbich`s impressive work at Weinper & Co, Agency for photography and Illustration.
Feel my HEARTZBEAT
There were the days, my friends, the olden golden days, when Vienna was an electronic music hub, when cool and reduced lounge-compatible music flooded hip clubs worldwide (Tunakan, Kruder, Dorfmeister are some of the names to drop…), and we all know that fashion and music are intrinsically connected, as are the party scene and trendsetting youngsters.
Well, the brandnew HEARTZBEAT at Vienna’s Club Planetarium may well bring back some of the glory from the late nineties with a decidedly contemporary minimal touch. Minimalism in fashion is back, celebrate it with a minimal techno night out.
Material // 2
credits: Carmen Rueter, Installation Views of
‘Water Portrait Projection’ by Prisca Wüst & Sarah Bühler, 2009
Interactive Mixed-Media-Installation, Highspeed-Video, Loop,14 Min.
In a dark room, a high-speed-video of b&w portraits gets projected onto a water surface. The technology of high-speed shows the effects in slow-motion: one second of real time is shown in one minute. This makes you detect the deformations which would otherwise be illegible for the human eye.
The basin with water can be manipulated: Viewers can produce waves, which get displayed in the projection on the wall and can change the portraits out of recognition. The overlaps of the light projection and the various forms of faces appear on the same plain in the reflection. Like in a real movement, the personal vibes of a person and the influence of the viewer get together – the fleetingness of portraits gets perceptible.
‘Water Potrait Projection’ is part of the exhibition ‘Digital Material‘ at Freiraum 21, Museumsquartier, Vienna
Fashion Jewellery
I recently had the chance to talk to Maia Adams, whose book Fashion Jewellery. Catwalk and Couture (published by Laurence King) is presented to a flock of fashionistas later today, “chez Colette” in Paris (4 – 6 pm, the author will be present).
In her survey of interesting positions from the international landscape of costume jewellery, Maia includes two Austrian design ventures, Sonja Bischur and FLorian. When I asked Maia why she what she liked about their work, this is what Maia told me:
“First and foremost, I appreciate the cerebral way they approach their work – a lot of thought goes into it which means that individual collections hold together very well, and in sequence they create a strong, and continuously evolving, body of work. In addition, I like their aesthetics and I’m impressed by the way they pare things right down. Sure, you could argue that some of Florian’s work has been visually very bold (especially the large-scale pieces) but there’s nothing extraneous there. Both Sonja and Florian stop at just the right point.”
And, never underestimate a designer’s social skills: “They’re also fun to hang out with because despite being serious about their work, they both have great sense of humour and know the best cafes in Vienna!”
Maia Adams, “Fashion Jewellery. Catwalk and Couture” is published by Laurence King and will be sold starting March 22.
Material // 1
credits: Carmen Rueter, Installation Views, ‘Süsser!Härter!’ by Lia Kraus & Marlene Hellmann, 2009
Currently freiraum 21, Museumsquartier, Vienna presents digital art works in the show ‘Digital Material‘. The show gains critical views on new technologies, which led to tremendous changes in social life, communication and cultural practice.
Lecturers as well as former and current students of Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts show individualistic stuff, reflecting positions besides political statements. It`s the heterogeneity, diversity and at least the artists` independence of mind that make the show that gorgeous.
`Sweeter! Harder’ by Lia Kraus and Malene Hellmann is an installation with sugar and an interactive projection of portraits at same time. The video loop shows a women from above, sugar is continuously percolating into her mouth. The sugar crystals build the ground for found footage, that we daily generate in and through the WorldWideWeb: from guzzling competitions on YouTube to staged orgies on YouPorn.
Text & Photos: Carmen Rueter
Animalia Performance in Paris, FLorian
courtesy of FLorian Jewellery
Pelican Avenue in Paris
FLorian in Paris
Black.
credits: MOMU, Antwerp
Black can be defined as a visual impression that appears in case of a missing stimulation by colors – when the retina merely receives a few light waves of the visible spectrum or even none. In Western fashion black is considered as stylish, elegant, sexy and powerful. It`s worn by religious figures, as well as by lawyers and judges and can also be found in goth or some punk subcultures..
Currently the next definition of ‘the new black’ for winter 2010/11 collections is shown in Paris. (Have a look at the designer`s directory of Austrian-based labels present during Paris Fashion Week here). Soon afterwards there`ll be great opportunity to reflect on the perception of black as a color in fashion at Modemuseum, Antwerp.
Momu’s newest exhibition illustrates the historic phases of the color black, with examples from painting, historic costume and contemporary fashion. It also looks more deeply into the textures and the potentials of black in diverse materials, including fur, leather and lace. In addition, the exhibition includes masterpieces by contemporary designers who, like the city of Antwerp, have a special connection to black.
BlACK. Masters of Black in Fashion and Costumes
[featuring Ann Demeulemeester, Olivier Theyskens, Dirk Van Saene, Givenchy (Riccardo Tisci), Chanel, Gareth Pugh and more]
March 25 – August 8, 2010
Momu, Antwerp
text: Carmen Rueter
