Vienna Fashion Week, day 3
Yesterday was day 3 of the MQ Vienna Fashion Week – a very good way to start the weekend, apparently, as the crowds kept swarming in. First came the afternoon shows by Liniert (rubber foam clothes!), Andy Wolf (eyewear from a Styrian manufacture), and Non by Kim.
The evening hours brought several fashion highlights. Claudia Rosa Lukas, for example, showed an awesome spring 2010 collection (which she will present in Paris during a showroom presentation next week) – reds and whites and blacks, just the right note between ladylike and sexy-to-kill. Knitwear extravaganza and leather jackets gave her look a refined and well-balanced touch of feminity.
Superated is a menswear label run by the skills of Peter Holzinger – his vision for spring 2010 is very positive, colourful (pastels!) and, indeed indeed, sexy (love those semi-transparent knit pants). We see a very steady evolution of an interesting fashion approach there.
Also in Vienna for the shows: Tom Rebl from Milan with a very Milanese masculine look – sex sells, and sexy models are always good for a convincing show act.
Kilian Kerner had come all the way from Berlin to show a collection characterised by Nordic reductionism. This self-taught young man is a current darling in the German capital. And elsewhere, obviously.
Liniert
Andy Wolf eyewear
Andy Wolf eyewear
Claudia Rosa Lukas
Claudia Rosa Lukas
Tom Rebl
Superated
Superated
Kilian Kerner
images: Jürgen Hammerschmid
Vienna Fashion Week, day 2
Yesterday we saw some more shows: Particularly interesting was the mélange of feminine chic and fetish clothes, brought together in a joint fashion show by designer Gina Drewes and Tiberius, with the latter beckoning out to a very characteristic clientele. Also interesting: Edith A’Gay is a designer who’s been showing her collections in Paris for years. She showed her collection together with jewellery designer and_i, (whose patches for Thierry Mugler made it onto the cover of Vogue Uomo – we showed you that…).
Gina Drewes & Tiberius
Gina Drewes & Tiberius
Edith A'Gay & and_i
Edith A'Gay & and_i
Callisti goes for a grand look.
Ep_Anoui has long chains and feathery robes.
Michel Mayer is a demi-couture specialist. Cleavage meets transparent layers.
Tartans and checks, as seen by Ulliko
all images: Jürgen Hammerschmid
Vienna Fashion Week opening + some more thoughts
Artista is based in Budapeszt and Vienna.
Some words I’d like to add after yesterday’s kick-off for Vienna Fashion Week – an event that, in its first year, rather awkwardly coincides with the Settimana della moda in Milano.
Cindy Steffens designs for trend-setting ladies...
Last night the whole thing started with a true fashion marathon, a pick and mix of fashion aesthetics from all directions. Interestingly, at some point I totally lost track (shownotes might have come in handy) of what I was being shown. Was it spring 2010 previews, was it autumn 2009, was it best-ofs, remixes and retrospectives? The one and/or the other, I feel inclined to say.
Elke Freytag does the petit violet, and the petit crème, and the petit...
Markertkraft is all about black and heavy materials.
Some of the labels showed pretty decent and solid collections. The not so spectacular findings of others, however, didn’t quite succeed in making you forget about that one Austrian (super?)model (no, not Iris) behaving like Hollywood grandeur meets Oktoberfest in front row (did she really have to wear those sunglasses?) or that poor child crying somewhere on his mother’s lap.
Masi is from Linz and does knitwear. Colourfully.
A glass of Prosecco and there you go, was the motto of numerous front row “celebs” who one could see sipping their way through the never-ending presentation.
Strictly geometrical, Leonie Smelt.
Striking detail: two labels (R! by Dominique Raffa and Leonie Smelt) showcased LED dresses in their collections, obviously trying to outshine their, uhm, colleagues. Hussein Chalayan rules. Apart from that, I found Leonie’s “kaleidoscopic” look a trifle overconstructed and artificial.
R! integrated leather elements into knit dresses. And made some of them glow.
Very London, some seasons ago… Speaking of London - the other friend of garments that glow in the dark, R!, concocted a decidedly Brit fab chic mood based on an inspiration of knit meets leather. It looked fine, but hadn’t I seen that somewhere else just recently… ?
Viennese London clichés: Emma Bell was fun.
A true relief was the wake-up call that came in the end after a maybe slightly too great number of rather heterogeneous collections: Emma Bell had (for reasons only she will know) swapped London for Vienna and showed her fall 2009 collection and a preview of spring 2010 in a very Super Super! colour splash collage savage folklore mood. At least that was fun to look at.
The designer of Pitour is one of the organisers of Fashion Week. And deconstructs and reconstructs.
A wee exhausted in the end, I felt sympathy with that one lonely stiletto that was lying on the catwalk at some point, next to a piece of cotton wool that had slipped off a model’s foot and held it there.
Fashion can be such a hard business, at times…
all images: Jürgen Hammerschmid
Vienna Fashion Week, day 1 seen by Carmen Rueter for AUSTRIANFASHION.NET
We asked Vienna-based blogger Carmen Rüter to put together her impressions of Vienna’s Fashion Week that started yesterday. And here is what she has to say and show you. Stay tuned for more…
’MQ Vienna Fashion Week’ started yesterday with a wide range of up-coming fashion designers celebrating the opening-show featuring the labels Pitour, km/a, Masi, Cindy Steffens, R! by Dominique Raffa, Elke Freytag and dypoldeductions from Austria, Leonie Smelt (the Netherlands), Artista (Hungary), Markertkraft (Germany) and Emma Bell (UK).
350 people could get in for free. In the course of the show they found themselves jam-packed in a curious, interested and –in the end – delighted crowd.
See some of my personal impressions from the very first evening.
all images by Carmen Rueter